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here are a couple if pics of the ADU - remember she is still moving in and would probably cause me severe bodily harm if she found out I've posted these
exterior
adu-exterior.jpg
great room from sliding door
adu great room.jpg
from the back door
adugreatroom-backdoor.jpg
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Ha! What's an extra zero among friends?Originally posted by Moliere View Post
Wow! That’s a huge addition for only $200k and that must be a really GREAT room
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Wow! That’s a huge addition for only $200k and that must be a really GREAT roomOriginally posted by happyone View Post
The ADU is finished and Daughter is slowing moving in - it came to just under 200K. - 7000 sq ft, 2 bedrooms one bath and a great room. It really came out nice.
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The ADU is finished and Daughter is slowing moving in - it came to just under 200K. - 7000 sq ft, 2 bedrooms one bath and a great room. It really came out nice.Originally posted by happyone View PostI mention somewhere that my middle daughter has been living with us trying to save up enough to by a condo. With housing prices/interest rates it seems that she just can't come up with enough to move out. To solve that problem, we are putting a ADU in the back yard for her. We have the footing poured and are waiting pouring of the slab. It will be two bedrooms, a single bath, living area/kitchen - roughly 650 sq ft.
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I couldn't believe the cost. We got 4 bids and the lowest was $200K and the highest $350K. we took the one for the gentleman who did our kitchen/garage -$215 and that is without land costs
No wonder kids can't a ford to buy a home!
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I dunno, might have been nice. The gray is great.Originally posted by myboynoah View Post
That looks good.
I'm going with Valspar Gravity.
Valspar Gravity.jpg
Can't believe I was going to put this on my garage walls. It was in the "slate" section, so I assumed it would look grayer.
Valspar Elevation.png
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That looks good.Originally posted by Donuthole View Post
Wheat Bread is a really solid Behr color in the grey/beige family. I did my garage in that color and it looks great.

I'm going with Valspar Gravity.
Valspar Gravity.jpg
Can't believe I was going to put this on my garage walls. It was in the "slate" section, so I assumed it would look grayer.
Valspar Elevation.png
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I guess I'll start now with a primer on grainfilling. While it depends on the finish, most of the time you want to grainfill open-pored wood. Mahogany, rosewood (Do not grainfill rosewood fingerboards!), limba, and ash are good examples of open-pored woods that are used in luthiery. Grainfilling is unecessary on tight grained woods like maple and alder.Originally posted by Moliere View Post
Looks awesome! I’d love to see more about the process. I have a backlog of projects for MJ but I think my next project for myself will be an acoustic guitar build. It looks intimidating and I’m going to need some new tools for it but I’d like to try it.- I use one of two kinds of grainfiller. My favorite is Timbermate. I use the version you can tint. Simply add water and get it to a a consistency resembling runny pancake batter.
- The second type of grainfiller I use is when I'm really going for a vintage vibe. This one uses fine pumice powder mixed with boiled linseed oil. Again, runny pancake batter is the consistency. This is my favorite type of grainfiller when I'm trying to stain the wood while grainfilling. While I make my own, most of the oil-based grainfillers you can purchase are made from this recipe. This is definitely the old-school method.
1. Sand to 320 grit.
2. Apply dewaxed shellac as a sealer. I used the Zinser stuff. Shellac gets into the pores and plugs them up. This can save you from having to grainfill multiple times. I let the shellac dry and then sand so that only the stuff in the pores is left.
3. Tint your grainfiller. If I want the tint to not fade in UV light I typically use Transtint dyes. If I want the color to fade like many vintage finishes I use analine dye. (Careful, some analine dyes are colorfast. Keda Dye is a good example.) There are two strategies for tinting grainfiller:- Stain the wood while grainfilling to save time. You have to be careful removing the excess when you do this.
- Tinting the grain only. For this method the goal is to add color to only the grain. This means you apply the grainfiller (I use a spreader or credit card to move the filler around the piece until the grain is filled and then I wipe as much off as I can.), le the exces dry, then sand the wood back to its natural color leaving the stain in the pores.
5. If I'm tinting the whole piece I'll let the grainfiller dry for a minute and then wipe off the excess with a piece of burlap. (This method works best with oil-based grainfillers.)
6. If I'm only tinting the grain I'll remove as much as I can with the spreader after the grain is filled, let it dry, and then sand off the grainfiller. This will leave the tinted grainfiller in the pores accentuating the grain.
7. Run your fingernail across the grain to see if you can feel the pores. If you can then you might need to repeat the process.
8.. After grainfilling is complete I always seal the wood with vinyl sealer or dewaxed shellac.
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