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  • BigPiney
    replied
    that is great

    Leave a comment:


  • Moliere
    replied
    Nice!

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  • happyone
    replied
    here are a couple if pics of the ADU - remember she is still moving in and would probably cause me severe bodily harm if she found out I've posted these

    exterior

    adu-exterior.jpg

    great room from sliding door

    adu great room.jpg

    from the back door

    adugreatroom-backdoor.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Bo Diddley
    replied
    Originally posted by Moliere View Post

    Wow! That’s a huge addition for only $200k and that must be a really GREAT room
    Ha! What's an extra zero among friends?

    Leave a comment:


  • happyone
    replied
    All post some pics when I get them downloaded

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  • Moliere
    replied
    Originally posted by happyone View Post

    The ADU is finished and Daughter is slowing moving in - it came to just under 200K. - 7000 sq ft, 2 bedrooms one bath and a great room. It really came out nice.
    Wow! That’s a huge addition for only $200k and that must be a really GREAT room

    Leave a comment:


  • happyone
    replied
    Originally posted by happyone View Post
    I mention somewhere that my middle daughter has been living with us trying to save up enough to by a condo. With housing prices/interest rates it seems that she just can't come up with enough to move out. To solve that problem, we are putting a ADU in the back yard for her. We have the footing poured and are waiting pouring of the slab. It will be two bedrooms, a single bath, living area/kitchen - roughly 650 sq ft.
    -
    I couldn't believe the cost. We got 4 bids and the lowest was $200K and the highest $350K. we took the one for the gentleman who did our kitchen/garage -$215 and that is without land costs

    No wonder kids can't a ford to buy a home!
    The ADU is finished and Daughter is slowing moving in - it came to just under 200K. - 7000 sq ft, 2 bedrooms one bath and a great room. It really came out nice.

    Leave a comment:


  • falafel
    replied
    Originally posted by myboynoah View Post

    That looks good.

    I'm going with Valspar Gravity.

    Valspar Gravity.jpg

    Can't believe I was going to put this on my garage walls. It was in the "slate" section, so I assumed it would look grayer.

    Valspar Elevation.png
    I dunno, might have been nice. The gray is great.

    Leave a comment:


  • myboynoah
    replied
    Originally posted by Donuthole View Post

    Wheat Bread is a really solid Behr color in the grey/beige family. I did my garage in that color and it looks great.

    That looks good.

    I'm going with Valspar Gravity.

    Valspar Gravity.jpg

    Can't believe I was going to put this on my garage walls. It was in the "slate" section, so I assumed it would look grayer.

    Valspar Elevation.png

    Leave a comment:


  • Donuthole
    replied
    Originally posted by myboynoah View Post



    I tried a more blush tone and it looks more like paint for a baby boy's room.

    Light gray it is.
    Wheat Bread is a really solid Behr color in the grey/beige family. I did my garage in that color and it looks great.

    Leave a comment:


  • myboynoah
    replied
    Originally posted by falafel View Post

    Love it. Maybe switch it up a bit and have a slight blueish tone to the gray.
    Originally posted by Pelado View Post

    With some royal blue accent pieces.
    I tried a more blush tone and it looks more like paint for a baby boy's room.

    Light gray it is.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pelado
    replied
    Originally posted by myboynoah View Post

    Yes! But I need something that won't soak up so much light. I'm thinking of a more bluish light gray per falafel's suggestion.
    With some royal blue accent pieces.

    Leave a comment:


  • myboynoah
    replied
    Originally posted by Pelado View Post

    Royal blue.
    Yes! But I need something that won't soak up so much light. I'm thinking of a more bluish light gray per falafel's suggestion.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pelado
    replied
    Originally posted by myboynoah View Post
    Nothing has awesome as Shak's guitar, but I'm painting my garage. What is a good color for the walls? I'm thinking light gray.
    Royal blue.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shaka
    replied
    Originally posted by Moliere View Post

    Looks awesome! I’d love to see more about the process. I have a backlog of projects for MJ but I think my next project for myself will be an acoustic guitar build. It looks intimidating and I’m going to need some new tools for it but I’d like to try it.
    I guess I'll start now with a primer on grainfilling. While it depends on the finish, most of the time you want to grainfill open-pored wood. Mahogany, rosewood (Do not grainfill rosewood fingerboards!), limba, and ash are good examples of open-pored woods that are used in luthiery. Grainfilling is unecessary on tight grained woods like maple and alder.
    • I use one of two kinds of grainfiller. My favorite is Timbermate. I use the version you can tint. Simply add water and get it to a a consistency resembling runny pancake batter.
    • The second type of grainfiller I use is when I'm really going for a vintage vibe. This one uses fine pumice powder mixed with boiled linseed oil. Again, runny pancake batter is the consistency. This is my favorite type of grainfiller when I'm trying to stain the wood while grainfilling. While I make my own, most of the oil-based grainfillers you can purchase are made from this recipe. This is definitely the old-school method.

    1. Sand to 320 grit.

    2. Apply dewaxed shellac as a sealer. I used the Zinser stuff. Shellac gets into the pores and plugs them up. This can save you from having to grainfill multiple times. I let the shellac dry and then sand so that only the stuff in the pores is left.

    3. Tint your grainfiller. If I want the tint to not fade in UV light I typically use Transtint dyes. If I want the color to fade like many vintage finishes I use analine dye. (Careful, some analine dyes are colorfast. Keda Dye is a good example.) There are two strategies for tinting grainfiller:
    • Stain the wood while grainfilling to save time. You have to be careful removing the excess when you do this.
    • Tinting the grain only. For this method the goal is to add color to only the grain. This means you apply the grainfiller (I use a spreader or credit card to move the filler around the piece until the grain is filled and then I wipe as much off as I can.), le the exces dry, then sand the wood back to its natural color leaving the stain in the pores.
    4. I apply with a spreader or credit card. I'll spread it across the grain and with the grain making sure the filler gets worked into the pores. The shellac is the key to only having to grainfill once. However, end-grain sometimes requires multiple grainfills.

    5. If I'm tinting the whole piece I'll let the grainfiller dry for a minute and then wipe off the excess with a piece of burlap. (This method works best with oil-based grainfillers.)

    6. If I'm only tinting the grain I'll remove as much as I can with the spreader after the grain is filled, let it dry, and then sand off the grainfiller. This will leave the tinted grainfiller in the pores accentuating the grain.

    7. Run your fingernail across the grain to see if you can feel the pores. If you can then you might need to repeat the process.

    8.. After grainfilling is complete I always seal the wood with vinyl sealer or dewaxed shellac.


    Leave a comment:

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