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  • Little help? (Rear cassette)

    Ok...made a huge error (unwittingly though)...with my chain.

    I have let it go too long before replacing it, and bought the little chain guage tool...and sure enough, it revealed that it was 'worn' and needed replacing.

    The bike shop said that with the new chain, and due to how much it had stretched...I may experience slippage from the rear cassette etc because of the wear of the chain.

    Now...if I have to replace the rear cassette....what is the collective wisdom of the Cuffers as to what cassette to buy to use as the replacement. I've not studied up on gear ratios, brands, etc.

    So, a little help with suggestions to get me started would be greatly appreciated. I'm planning for the worst, and assuming I'll be buying one shortly.

    Thanks for your suggestions.
    "Newton's First Law of Motion: ...things at rest tend to stay at rest. Things in motion, tend to stay in motion...."

    Hmm... Good motivation for me to remain active I guess.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Borg View Post
    Ok...made a huge error (unwittingly though)...with my chain.

    I have let it go too long before replacing it, and bought the little chain guage tool...and sure enough, it revealed that it was 'worn' and needed replacing.

    The bike shop said that with the new chain, and due to how much it had stretched...I may experience slippage from the rear cassette etc because of the wear of the chain.

    Now...if I have to replace the rear cassette....what is the collective wisdom of the Cuffers as to what cassette to buy to use as the replacement. I've not studied up on gear ratios, brands, etc.

    So, a little help with suggestions to get me started would be greatly appreciated. I'm planning for the worst, and assuming I'll be buying one shortly.

    Thanks for your suggestions.
    I don't like the sound of this. How often are you supposed to replace your chain? Sorry I am no help whatsoever, as I am more clueless than you.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by BigPiney View Post
      I don't like the sound of this. How often are you supposed to replace your chain? Sorry I am no help whatsoever, as I am more clueless than you.
      Varies on some other factors; ie. 'how' you ride. Like climbing and shifting under duress etc.

      Rule of thumb that I've just kind of learned...start checking it at every 1000 miles or so. I bought the little "go/no-go" gauge. Once it slips in to the chain gaps...time to look at getting another chain.

      Others say, basically once per year....but, again, it depends. You may put on 3000+ miles a year, and I may only do 500. So, around 1000 miles..start to check and monitor.
      "Newton's First Law of Motion: ...things at rest tend to stay at rest. Things in motion, tend to stay in motion...."

      Hmm... Good motivation for me to remain active I guess.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Borg View Post
        Varies on some other factors; ie. 'how' you ride. Like climbing and shifting under duress etc.

        Rule of thumb that I've just kind of learned...start checking it at every 1000 miles or so. I bought the little "go/no-go" gauge. Once it slips in to the chain gaps...time to look at getting another chain.

        Others say, basically once per year....but, again, it depends. You may put on 3000+ miles a year, and I may only do 500. So, around 1000 miles..start to check and monitor.
        Thanks - looks like it may be time.

        Comment


        • #5
          I think once a year is probably about right for most normal riders, which puts most of us at 1000-2000 miles.

          Its pretty amazing once you do go about replacing it to see how much it has stretched. On the new one, take out however many links you need to match the number on the previous chain. Then lay them on the ground and see the difference in length.

          As to the cassette, what are you currently using, both on the rear cassette and on the front chainrings? Are you a triple chainring kind of guy, standard double or compact double? How many hills are on your typical rides? What brand components do you currently have?

          In general terms, you can usually get a good new chain for about $30-40 and a good Shimano cassette for $59-80. It makes a huge difference in shifting, imo, as compared to an old, worn drivetrain set.

          Comment


          • #6
            Mrs. PAC and I just had our third chains put on the bikes we bought last June. But she has hit the 5,000 mile mark while I'm a little over 3,000. The bike shop guys, whom we trust, said every 1500 miles or so is fine given our riding style (and we do a lot of hills). We haven't changed our cassettes and won't have to do so for awhile, or so they say. As long as you're buying a good quality cassette (Shimano or Rival, for example), I'd focus more on the gearing (for me, I want as many teeth in the granny as possible--I've got 28 and would love a couple more).

            Comment


            • #7
              WHether you need to change casettes is usually a function of just how worn your chain is. As the chain stretches and gets dirty it wears the casette in a matching way. If you replace the chain before it stretches much, then your cassette should be fine with a new chain becasue the cassette will still be in tolerance. But if you wait too long, as Borg has apparently done and as I tend to do, you will need to replace your casette too becasue it will be worn. It is sort of like replacing pads and rotors on car disc brakes at the same time. The parts wear together and if you go too long you need to replace both.

              See, when the linkes stretch they put more pressure on the leading edge of the cog teeth, flattening them off and then when you put a new chain on, the cog teeth tend not to engage the new link fully and this leads to slippage.

              Sorry for the babble, does this make sense?
              PLesa excuse the tpyos.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by creekster View Post
                WHether you need to change casettes is usually a function of just how worn your chain is. As the chain stretches and gets dirty it wears the casette in a matching way. If you replace the chain before it stretches much, then your cassette should be fine with a new chain becasue the cassette will still be in tolerance. But if you wait too long, as Borg has apparently done and as I tend to do, you will need to replace your casette too becasue it will be worn. It is sort of like replacing pads and rotors on car disc brakes at the same time. The parts wear together and if you go too long you need to replace both.

                See, when the linkes stretch they put more pressure on the leading edge of the cog teeth, flattening them off and then when you put a new chain on, the cog teeth tend not to engage the new link fully and this leads to slippage.

                Sorry for the babble, does this make sense?
                Yep..exactly what the bike shop said. I'm fighting off a cold...but, I will take it out for a ride or two this week to see if it slips. If I run with a new chain and a worn rear cassette...will it have the same effect on the chain?...causing undue or enhancing the wear on the new chain because the cassette is jacked up?

                I have a triple. I'm not sure what the gear ratio is, and I believe it's a Shimano 105 or Ultegra. I've got both on my bike and at the moment, I can't remember which one is which...think it's ultegra though.

                I appreciate everyone's replies. I'm learning a lot here....
                Last edited by Borg; 06-21-2010, 09:42 AM.
                "Newton's First Law of Motion: ...things at rest tend to stay at rest. Things in motion, tend to stay in motion...."

                Hmm... Good motivation for me to remain active I guess.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bike shop visit during lunch.

                  Not sure of the brand name I would go for just yet...but, had a discussion with them regarding gear ratios.

                  I think I'm kind of giddy about an 11-28.

                  Apparently, you get more gear (the eleven) for the fast pace...and more climbing power (the 28) for climbing. Middle gears are roughly the same.

                  Count me in for the 11-28.
                  "Newton's First Law of Motion: ...things at rest tend to stay at rest. Things in motion, tend to stay in motion...."

                  Hmm... Good motivation for me to remain active I guess.

                  Comment

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