Francophiles: Bring me your finest meats and cheeses (pertaining to southern France)

[MarkGrace]

Fries with mayo rocks.

[New Mexican Disaster]

I only passed through Marseille but I think it's worth skipping considering all the other great places to see. I thought Antibes was really cool and Eze is a nice town with great views. I also thought Nice was nicer than Cannes, just make sure you get some mussels and fries wherever you go.

Eze was my favorite place we visited. The views are incredible and it is nice and quiet. I echo everything else everyone said, and add that the castle in Monaco is worth seeing for sure, especially if since it should not be hotter than shit and you won't be perspiring insanely along with thousands of other tourists.

[oxcoug]

Sorry. Never been there. Maybe try out a nude beach or two?

Step it up and contribute, mon frere. Or are you only a northern France guy?

Nice input here from all.

I am leaning toward skipping Marseilles or just driving through it. Eze and Nimes sound like two that should be added.

[Moliere]

Step it up and contribute, mon frere. Or are you only a northern France guy?

Oui oui!

Someday I'll visit the south of France many people from Paris go down to Gap and other similar places in the mountains, but I honestly know nothing about it.

[Solon]

I've never set foot in the south of France but next Saturday I'll land in Nice and will be between there and Montpellier w/ a car for eight days. Have a bit of business to conduct but largely speaking will be fancy free and keen to roam.

Definitely marked in:
- Montpellier where a friend lives
- Marseille for at least a stopover
- Manosque - where another friend, an old mission companion, works for an NGO

Probables:
- Arles, just cuz its history is excellent and it seems old and quaint - anyone spent time? Am thinking of spending a night or two
- Aix-en-Provence - don't know much, hear it's pretty rad

Possibles:
- Avignon - obviously significant history, seems like it's worth a stop
- Monaco - dunno, seems kind of like a hell of excess but a couple of people have said just go and have brunch and hang for a morning

Thoughts? Favorite spots? Little known treasures?

As a missionary, I spent 4 months in Nice, 4 months in Arles, 4 months in Montpellier, and 6 months in Aix-en-Pce, and I've been back 4 or 5 times since, so I think I have a decent handle on the area. So, here are my opinions.

Nice has the beach, and is within an easy drive/train ride of Monaco, although Cannes & Antibes have prettier seafronts. If you have a car, it's worth a drive up Cimiez, the big mountain on the edge of the sea where the LDS church is found. There's a ruined Roman arena (very small) on top, as well as the house/museum of Matisse. The view, though, is what's stunning. Depending on time of year, you can see snowcovered Alps in one direction, the Mediterranean in the other.

The road from Nice to Aix (French Route A-8) is essentially an old Roman road, the Via Domitia. There are still a couple of Roman mileposts between Nice & Monaco, along the Grande Corniche (where Robert DeNiro et al. ambushed the bald guy with the briefcase in Ronin). Monaco is pretty cool, but in a small dose. There's a nice museum/tribute to Grace Kelly and aquarium to see, and it's always fun to count the ferraris (I once stood still and counted 17 pass by in 60 seconds).

The road from Nice to Aix is a quick shot without much to recommend it for tourism (except for the aforementioned Cannes & Antibes). If you have a girlfriend, the perfume factory in grasse is okay, but the one just east of Nice in Eze is nicer (and in a cool little walled village that cars can't drive into; you park at the base and hike up). Otherwise, it's nice enough places (like Frejus or San Rafael), but nothing to make a special trip to see.

Personally, I'd avoid Marseille. It's a big city, but not that interesting. Even the touristized Chateau d'If is a modern invention intended to make money on Dumas' book.

I think you can enjoy Aix in a day, maybe parts of two days and a night. One of Aix's main features (like its name might suggest) is the multiple fountains around town. Some have really delicious water; others not so much (most are individual wells or springs). The church in Aix has an older section with a 4th or 5th century baptismal font (baptism by immersion, or at least getting really wet), and the studio/house of Cezanne is worth a 30-minute visit. The downtown "centreville" area is really charming with lots of boutiques and little crafts-shops.

One of the biggest handicrafts of the area are the "santons" or little-saints that make up the creches or nativity scenes at christmastime. These santons are figures of 19th century villagers, each bringing a gift to Jesus. So, you get a baker carrying bread, a woman with a basket of lavender, a shepherd with a sheep, etc. You'll see them everywhere, and of varying quality and cost.

If you get a chance, the hinterlands around Aix is where some of the prettiest country in France is found. From Aix to Arles is only about a 30-40 minute drive, but I'd take the roundabout way through Les Baux de Provence (a medieval walled city perched high on the mountains) and St. Remy de Provence, a picturesque little city made famous by Van Gogh (this is where he painted Starry Night). The Windmill of Daudet is in the area around Arles & Aix too, as is the Pont du Gard, a large Roman-era aqueduct.

A substantial drive from Aix, but worth it (IMO) is the Abbey of Senanque, famous for its big lavender fields (and the production of honey). The setting can't be matched, and the buildings date to the 12th century.

In Arles, you have pretty much the perfect confluence of ancient & modern history. This town has the best Roman ruins in France (except for maybe the theater in Orange). The amphitheater is actually bigger than the one just up the road in Nimes (when I was a missionary in Arles, we went to church in Nimes 3 times a month, and in Avignon once a month), and the theater is worth a quick look through the fence (but don't pay the entrance fee). The walk along the Rhone river is pretty beautiful, and some of the sites where Van Gogh painted are marked with little tableaus comparing the view with the painting. Have a drink in the Cafe de Nuit (since repainted to look like Van Gogh's painting, but still pretty cool and in sight of a couple of preserved columns from the old Roman forum that have been incorporated into the surrounding buildings). The church of St. Trophime is a nice example of Romanesque architecture, and there's a pretty cloister nearby with some cool bas-relief art. The great big obelisk in front of St. Trophime is a turning-post from the Roman racetrack that was located just outside of town (where the freeway off-ramp is found). It's been turned into a fountain today in the main square. The Alyscamps is a medieveal "necropolis" that's pretty cool, mostly because Van Gogh painted it a few times.

You can easily see Arles in one solid day, so I would spend an afternoon, a night, and maybe a morning wandering around. Then you'll wonder how I managed to spend 4 months in that place.

You could pop up to Avignon to see the Palace of the Popes where the alternate popes lived during the 14th century's "Babylonian CAptivity", but I'd skip it.

As for Montpellier, if you have a friend you'll be good to go since he/she will have a handle on what's going on in town. Less touristy stuff to do but a beautiful, cosmopolitan, and charming city (skip the trip to Lunel or Palavas to see the beach. It's nothing compared to the beaches of the Cote d'Azure). The main central area in Montpellier is not a square - it's an oval-shaped plaza called "Place de la Comedie", or "Place d'oeuf" (egg-place) by the locals. It's famous for its university - one of the oldest medical schools in Europe. The cathedral of St. Roch is a massive building, and nearby is housed a museum of medical oddities from the 16th century or so. Lots of pickled two-headed fetuses. There's a Roman acqueduct actually in town, so you don't have to bother with the Pont du Gard (unless you want to). There's also some neoclassical stuff from the 19th century that often fools people since it's juxtaposed with the ancient acqueduct, or "Les Arceaux".

If you really get a bug to see some country, from Arles head south into La Camargue, a wild region dominated by traditional "cowboys" and gypsies. There are wild cattle roaming around this French National Park, and it's a barren and beautiful wetlands preserve. Aigues Mortes is a striking medieval walled city with very little tourism, and St. Maries de la Mer is a holy place for France's Gipsy population, where they worship the Black Mary in a huge festival every May. All of this can be seen in an afternoon's drive.

Let me know if you have specific interests and I'll do my best to answer.

Bon voyage.

[Lost Student]

As a missionary, I spent 4 months in Nice, 4 months in Arles, 4 months in Montpellier, and 6 months in Aix-en-Pce, and I've been back 4 or 5 times since, so I think I have a decent handle on the area. So, here are my opinions.

Nice has the beach, and is within an easy drive/train ride of Monaco, although Cannes & Antibes have prettier seafronts. If you have a car, it's worth a drive up Cimiez, the big mountain on the edge of the sea where the LDS church is found. There's a ruined Roman arena (very small) on top, as well as the house/museum of Matisse. The view, though, is what's stunning. Depending on time of year, you can see snowcovered Alps in one direction, the Mediterranean in the other.

The road from Nice to Aix (French Route A-8) is essentially an old Roman road, the Via Domitia. There are still a couple of Roman mileposts between Nice & Monaco, along the Grande Corniche (where Robert DeNiro et al. ambushed the bald guy with the briefcase in Ronin). Monaco is pretty cool, but in a small dose. There's a nice museum/tribute to Grace Kelly and aquarium to see, and it's always fun to count the ferraris (I once stood still and counted 17 pass by in 60 seconds).

The road from Nice to Aix is a quick shot without much to recommend it for tourism (except for the aforementioned Cannes & Antibes). If you have a girlfriend, the perfume factory in grasse is okay, but the one just east of Nice in Eze is nicer (and in a cool little walled village that cars can't drive into; you park at the base and hike up). Otherwise, it's nice enough places (like Frejus or San Rafael), but nothing to make a special trip to see.

Personally, I'd avoid Marseille. It's a big city, but not that interesting. Even the touristized Chateau d'If is a modern invention intended to make money on Dumas' book.

I think you can enjoy Aix in a day, maybe parts of two days and a night. One of Aix's main features (like its name might suggest) is the multiple fountains around town. Some have really delicious water; others not so much (most are individual wells or springs). The church in Aix has an older section with a 4th or 5th century baptismal font (baptism by immersion, or at least getting really wet), and the studio/house of Cezanne is worth a 30-minute visit. The downtown "centreville" area is really charming with lots of boutiques and little crafts-shops.

One of the biggest handicrafts of the area are the "santons" or little-saints that make up the creches or nativity scenes at christmastime. These santons are figures of 19th century villagers, each bringing a gift to Jesus. So, you get a baker carrying bread, a woman with a basket of lavender, a shepherd with a sheep, etc. You'll see them everywhere, and of varying quality and cost.

If you get a chance, the hinterlands around Aix is where some of the prettiest country in France is found. From Aix to Arles is only about a 30-40 minute drive, but I'd take the roundabout way through Les Baux de Provence (a medieval walled city perched high on the mountains) and St. Remy de Provence, a picturesque little city made famous by Van Gogh (this is where he painted Starry Night). The Windmill of Daudet is in the area around Arles & Aix too, as is the Pont du Gard, a large Roman-era aqueduct.

A substantial drive from Aix, but worth it (IMO) is the Abbey of Senanque, famous for its big lavender fields (and the production of honey). The setting can't be matched, and the buildings date to the 12th century.

In Arles, you have pretty much the perfect confluence of ancient & modern history. This town has the best Roman ruins in France (except for maybe the theater in Orange). The amphitheater is actually bigger than the one just up the road in Nimes (when I was a missionary in Arles, we went to church in Nimes 3 times a month, and in Avignon once a month), and the theater is worth a quick look through the fence (but don't pay the entrance fee). The walk along the Rhone river is pretty beautiful, and some of the sites where Van Gogh painted are marked with little tableaus comparing the view with the painting. Have a drink in the Cafe de Nuit (since repainted to look like Van Gogh's painting, but still pretty cool and in sight of a couple of preserved columns from the old Roman forum that have been incorporated into the surrounding buildings). The church of St. Trophime is a nice example of Romanesque architecture, and there's a pretty cloister nearby with some cool bas-relief art. The great big obelisk in front of St. Trophime is a turning-post from the Roman racetrack that was located just outside of town (where the freeway off-ramp is found). It's been turned into a fountain today in the main square. The Alyscamps is a medieveal "necropolis" that's pretty cool, mostly because Van Gogh painted it a few times.

You can easily see Arles in one solid day, so I would spend an afternoon, a night, and maybe a morning wandering around. Then you'll wonder how I managed to spend 4 months in that place.

You could pop up to Avignon to see the Palace of the Popes where the alternate popes lived during the 14th century's "Babylonian CAptivity", but I'd skip it.

As for Montpellier, if you have a friend you'll be good to go since he/she will have a handle on what's going on in town. Less touristy stuff to do but a beautiful, cosmopolitan, and charming city (skip the trip to Lunel or Palavas to see the beach. It's nothing compared to the beaches of the Cote d'Azure). The main central area in Montpellier is not a square - it's an oval-shaped plaza called "Place de la Comedie", or "Place d'oeuf" (egg-place) by the locals. It's famous for its university - one of the oldest medical schools in Europe. The cathedral of St. Roch is a massive building, and nearby is housed a museum of medical oddities from the 16th century or so. Lots of pickled two-headed fetuses. There's a Roman acqueduct actually in town, so you don't have to bother with the Pont du Gard (unless you want to). There's also some neoclassical stuff from the 19th century that often fools people since it's juxtaposed with the ancient acqueduct, or "Les Arceaux".

If you really get a bug to see some country, from Arles head south into La Camargue, a wild region dominated by traditional "cowboys" and gypsies. There are wild cattle roaming around this French National Park, and it's a barren and beautiful wetlands preserve. Aigues Mortes is a striking medieval walled city with very little tourism, and St. Maries de la Mer is a holy place for France's Gipsy population, where they worship the Black Mary in a huge festival every May. All of this can be seen in an afternoon's drive.

Let me know if you have specific interests and I'll do my best to answer.

Bon voyage.

I'm going to refer back to this post someday when I can take my wife to France. Lots of interesting places to go.

Is Montpellier France pronounced the same as Montpelier, Idaho (mont-pill-yer)? Note that the Bear Lake version has one less L (same as the Vermont one). I've driven through both Montpelier and Paris (Idaho) numerous times and enjoyed it. How do the French versions compare?

[BigPiney]

I'm going to refer back to this post someday when I can take my wife to France. Lots of interesting places to go.

Is Montpellier France pronounced the same as Montpelier, Idaho (mont-pill-yer)? Note that the Bear Lake version has one less L (same as the Vermont one). I've driven through both Montpelier and Paris (Idaho) numerous times and enjoyed it. How do the French versions compare?

I pronounce it Mon pee yeah

[PaloAltoCougar]

I'm going to refer back to this post someday when I can take my wife to France. Lots of interesting places to go.

No kidding, that was great. Adieu Rick Steves; Salut Solon!

[pellegrino]

For the record, I am not a Francophile, nor a (competent) Francophone, but I have been to Southern France.

I second Solon's recommendations, even though I've only done half of them.

As for food, I have one recommendation; bouillabaise, you need to try as many different versions of this awesome fish soup as you can.

[oxcoug]

No kidding, that was great. Adieu Rick Steves; Salut Solon!

Sweet Fancy French Moses.

Solon -- I feel like I should pay you cash money for this consultation. Instead I'll just say "thank you" and be on my way.

But I might return w/ more questions. So helpful.

I will share for the record - if only in hopes of bolstering my reputation by sharing Solon's tastes - my prelim review of the historical cities of southern France had brought me to the conclusion that Arles was the "perfect confluence" you describe.

[oxcoug]

It's been an amazing trip so far. A few rapid fire impressions:

* the drive in from Turin (I ended up flying to Milan) to Aix en Provence is ridiculously beautiful.

* Aix has instantly become one of my favorite towns. Got a hotel that hasn't been updated since the Cold War - just how I like em - on Cours Mirabeau and lost myself in the place. Thanks for all of the various tips.

* cheese has always been delicious, why does it seem more delicious this week?

* Stayed w/ my friend in Manosque which is a charming little place. Coming from NYC I felt gut-punched when he told me that he and his wife pay 1,100 Euro a month to rent their beautiful 3-bedroom home, perched on a hilltop surrounded by olive trees, overlooking the old town and out across Provence. He works with a weird international energy org called ITER which is located there for some reason.

* Nice notes from Solon on Arles - spent one night there (last night). Mindbending intersection of histories there between the Roman, the Frankish, Saracen, French and then being its own independent kingdom. Had some terrible frites at the cafe that Van Gogh painted and went to the hospital where he recuperated after slicing off his ear.

* Am now in Montpellier - which has a much newer, younger energy and which I'm really digging so far. Even though my buddy's neighbor is allegedly running some kind of swingers ring on the floor below where I'm staying. I know some of you will demand pics so I'll see what I can do.

[oxcoug]

And here is my new favorite discovery, Aigues-Mortes:

[Tim]

And here is my new favorite discovery, Aigues-Mortes:

Sweet! That's a Catalan/Occitan name.