Auto A/C Question: Freon Replacement

[Donuthole]

It appears the A/C in my car needs some new Freon. I've seen the cans of do-it-yourself Freon in the auto stores, and it seems simple enough if you follow the steps properly. IIRC, a can runs about $35-40 bucks.

Meanwhile, my local auto lube shop charges $89 to recharge the A/C. Is there any reason to have them do it, i.e. do they do something more than what I would do by purchasing a can of freon and recharging the A/C myself?

For those of you who've done this before, how foolproof is the do-it-yourself version? I'm a reasonably handy person (though less when it comes to auto repairs, it seems) so I think I could do it. Is the do-it-yourself version less-quality than what I'd get from having a mechanic or lube shop do it?

[woot]

It appears the A/C in my car needs some new Freon. I've seen the cans of do-it-yourself Freon in the auto stores, and it seems simple enough if you follow the steps properly. IIRC, a can runs about $35-40 bucks.

Meanwhile, my local auto lube shop charges $89 to recharge the A/C. Is there any reason to have them do it, i.e. do they do something more than what I would do by purchasing a can of freon and recharging the A/C myself?

For those of you who've done this before, how foolproof is the do-it-yourself version? I'm a reasonably handy person (though less when it comes to auto repairs, it seems) so I think I could do it. Is the do-it-yourself version less-quality than what I'd get from having a mechanic or lube shop do it?

My local joint was charging 49 to do it, so I took it in only to find out that the AC compressor is trashed, making recharging it pointless. If you know enough to determine that it's really just the freon that is making the AC ineffective, then the DIY approach seems fine, but if you're like me it might be better to have somebody look at it.

[YOhio]

If your car runs R134a refrigerant, which it probably does, you're looking at anywhere between $8-$13/can and $15 for the connection hose and gauge. You may need as many as four cans. Go to Wal-Mart for the refrigerant, it's a few bucks cheaper than the auto store. Once you get all of your connections in place it's as easy as refilling a tire. Definitely better to DIY than go into the auto shop.

[Donuthole]

My local joint was charging 49 to do it, so I took it in only to find out that the AC compressor is trashed, making recharging it pointless. If you know enough to determine that it's really just the freon that is making the AC ineffective, then the DIY approach seems fine, but if you're like me it might be better to have somebody look at it.

The car is only 5 years old, and only has 30k miles, so I'm doubting it's the compressor (though it could be). It's a $30-40 gamble that I suppose I'm willing to take.

If your car runs R134a refrigerant, which it probably does, you're looking at anywhere between $8-$13/can and $15 for the connection hose and gauge. You may need as many as four cans. Go to Wal-Mart for the refrigerant, it's a few bucks cheaper than the auto store. Once you get all of your connections in place it's as easy as refilling a tire. Definitely better to DIY than go into the auto shop.

Good info, thanks. I think the price I was seeing must be for a can of refrigerant and the hose and gauge. I was unaware that a single can might not be enough, however.

[YOhio]

The car is only 5 years old, and only has 30k miles, so I'm doubting it's the compressor (though it could be). It's a $30-40 gamble that I suppose I'm willing to take.

You might have a leak if you've already lost your refrigerant on a five year old car. You can get a small can of leak sealer that has a red dye for $5. Put that it and the red dye can help you identify whether or not you have a puncture in your ac hose, bad o-ring or connection.

Good info, thanks. I think the price I was seeing must be for a can of refrigerant and the hose and gauge. I was unaware that a single can might not be enough, however.

A single can might be fine, just as long as you're up around 35-40 psi.

[kccougar]

Agreed with above. If you have a relatively slow leak, filling it yourself with the R134a cans is the way to go. It really is no different than the fill you'd get from a mechanic's shop. And once you have the hose and fitting, if you have to add a can ($8-$10) every once in a while, it is probably much cheaper than repairing the AC.

However, if you have a big leak, then a simple refill is not going to solve your problem. My advice would be to spend the $30 it will cost to refill it yourself and see if and for how long that solves your problem. If it starts blowing hot again right away, then you know you need a mechanic's services.

But you live in Seattle - what do you need AC for?

[Donuthole]

But you live in Seattle - what do you need AC for?

It is 110 degrees today where I live. We did have a rainy spring, tho. Plus, the Stratosphere is way cooler than the Space Needle.

[kccougar]

It is 110 degrees today where I live. We did have a rainy spring, tho. Plus, the Stratosphere is way cooler than the Space Needle.

Oops. For some reason I was thinking Mark Grace started the thread.

[FMCoug]

Agree with the others regarding the DIY R134. However, the $89 "recharge" service at a shop is much more than just adding refrigerant (at least it should be). They will evacuate the system of refrigerant, put a vacuum pump on it for a good long while to ensure all moisture is out of the system (this also serves the purpose of leak testing as if you have a bad leak it won't hold vacuum), then recharge with new refrigerant. So "adding a can" vs. that service is really apples and oranges.

That said, I'd add a can or two and see how it goes. The psi you should be at will very depending on the ambient temperature but there should be a chart on the side of the can. In Vegas I'd expect it would be more like 45-50 psi.

[LiveCoug]

Our AC in our 96 Honda went out late last summer. It worked one day and then the next, i saw a nice smoke/mist coming out of the vents. It continued doing this for a while and when it finally stopped, the AC was dead. Any ideas as to what might cause this? It's getting hot and my wife would really like the AC as she drives this car to work every day....

[FMCoug]

Our AC in our 96 Honda went out late last summer. It worked one day and then the next, i saw a nice smoke/mist coming out of the vents. It continued doing this for a while and when it finally stopped, the AC was dead. Any ideas as to what might cause this? It's getting hot and my wife would really like the AC as she drives this car to work every day....

There is some basic troubleshooting you can do yourself ... see my other thread. Or wait until I finish that project and then bring it over to FM's auto A/C shop

[Donuthole]

So i picked up a can of refrigerant and made a few calls in the ward to find a gauge/hose i could borrow. The PSI read 35 initially, and after an entire can, the PSI still reads 35. (As FM noted, the psi should be about 50-55 in 100-110 deg. weather). Then, just for comparison's sake, I tested the PSI in my car (which has a decent A/C, though it sucks compared to the old car I just sold with its R12 cooling system.) It also read 35 psi. Not sure if that means they are both really at 35 PSI, or if the hose/gauge is broken.

I pulled the paperwork from the original owner and found that the AC had been serviced by the dealer about a year ago due to the owner's complaints that the AC wasn't cold. I also pulled the original owner's bill of sale and found that the van is still under warranty for another 8 months. That means it's going to the dealer for service tomorrow.

[YOhio]

So i picked up a can of refrigerant and made a few calls in the ward to find a gauge/hose i could borrow. The PSI read 35 initially, and after an entire can, the PSI still reads 35. (As FM noted, the psi should be about 50-55 in 100-110 deg. weather). Then, just for comparison's sake, I tested the PSI in my car (which has a decent A/C, though it sucks compared to the old car I just sold with its R12 cooling system.) It also read 35 psi. Not sure if that means they are both really at 35 PSI, or if the hose/gauge is broken.

I pulled the paperwork from the original owner and found that the AC had been serviced by the dealer about a year ago due to the owner's complaints that the AC wasn't cold. I also pulled the original owner's bill of sale and found that the van is still under warranty for another 8 months. That means it's going to the dealer for service tomorrow.

At least you know it's not a leak. Try to push the dealer to replace the compressor while it's still under warranty.

[Donuthole]

At least you know it's not a leak. Try to push the dealer to replace the compressor while it's still under warranty.

It wasn't a leak in the line, but a leak in the compressor. Also, the head valve was faulty, meaning it was randomly closing when it shouldn't.

The dealer replaced the compressor and the head valve, and it was all covered by the warranty. I picked it up on my lunch hour and the air is now icy cold.

[FN Phat]

It wasn't a leak in the line, but a leak in the compressor. Also, the head valve was faulty, meaning it was randomly closing when it shouldn't.

The dealer replaced the compressor and the head valve, and it was all covered by the warranty. I picked it up on my lunch hour and the air is now icy cold.

sweet.